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Currently dreaming of whitewashed, picture perfect Italian villages? How about beaches with obscenely blue and crystal clear water? Or kind people, delicious food, and a side to Italy that’s off the beaten path?
If so, Puglia is the place for you.
And today you’ve landed in the right place: I’m going to walk you through all the places I recommend for visiting and staying in the Valle d’Itria region of Puglia.
This post will be covering the best places to see in Puglia’s Valle d’Itria, which is located between Terra di Bari to the north, and Salento to the south. This is arguably where you’ll find the most popular places to go in Puglia, and where most people are headed when they travel to this stunning region of Italy!
I stayed here for a week in the summer before heading south to Salento (keep your eyes peeled for my guides to the Salento peninsula). It was absolutely the best way to be introduced to this region and I can’t wait to share everything I learned there about the best towns to visit in Puglia with you, so let’s get into it!
P.S. I’ve organized this in alphabetical order, not in order of preference!
Delve into Italy
Don’t forget to check out the rest of my Italy posts and guides if you’re still planning your perfect trip!
The Best Places to Visit in Puglia
DISCLAIMER: Puglia, like literally so many parts of Italy, can come under strain from overtourism. I beg you, BEG YOU, to not be an asshole when you’re traveling around Italy (or anywhere). I mostly like to assume that if you’re here on my blog, I can trust that you want to help preserve, rather than spoil, the integrity of wherever you’re traveling… but still. I would feel irresponsible if I didn’t still give a little reminder that if you’re making the locals’ lives hell, you should stay home :).
1. Alberobello
The blunt and unfortunate truth about Alberobello is that it has become a total tourist trap. It just has! The Trulli Zone—a whole area made entirely of conical stone houses typical to this small corner of Puglia—is totally swarmed with visitors intent on getting the perfect picture for Instagram and popping in and out of tourist shops mostly selling the same touristy crap. However, confession time… I kind of liked it anyway.
Now, as a disclaimer, I don’t think you should spend more than like, 2 hours in Alberobello, but I do think those 2 hours can be worthwhile. I also recommend you visit early (around 9am) if you’re looking for the lightest crowds.
It’s just cool! Alberobello’s Trulli Zone is admittedly unique, and it’s something you can’t see almost anywhere else in the world, as the stone they’re made of is only found in Valle d’Itria itself, so of course I think you should make a stop there.
While most of the shops are full of tourist crap, there are local elements! For example, we ended up going into this mother-son shop where one side was all lace work and the other side was all hand-carved rock art. They ended up chatting to us for 30 minutes about the history of the buildings and the area in general. They’d both lived there their whole lives, so of course they had super interesting perspectives on the town, the way it had changed due to tourism (they were actually in favor!), and Italian history and culture in general. That conversation alone made the visit worth it!
👉🏼 Check out my top walking tour pick for Alberobello! 👈🏼
Looking to stay in an idyllic trullo?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick near Alberobello: Le Dieci Porte
2. Altamura
This unassuming, landlocked town is about 45 minutes inland from Bari, and if I had to place a bet, I would say that it likely hasn’t landed on your radar just yet. Don’t worry, I won’t hold that against you, and if you’re proving me wrong right now, I think we’d get along.
We ended up in Altamura because we wanted to do a cheese and food experience with Caseificcio Dicecca (and before you ask, yes we wanted to do it because of Stanley Tucci). Ideally we would have done it as planned, where you go around Altamura and see all the artisans, and then head to a nearby forest to the Baby Dicecca kiosk where you can do a cheese pairing/tasting situation in the lovely rustic setting. Tragically, we weren’t able to go to the forest because of heat and timing, but Vito made sure we had a hell of a time anyway!
Altamura is well known for its tradition of breadmaking, which uses hundred-year-old sourdough starter and is done in these incredibly old and very intimidating wood-burning ovens. The taste and consistency is something they’re really proud of, and with good reason! The bread tasted amazing.
There’s also a very quaint old town that we got to walk through! I know that often all the old towns can start the blend together, but Altamura’s is particularly interesting because of the strade strette, and the low hanging arches. Hundreds of years ago when people were still defending the town from invaders, they built the streets to be insanely narrow, and archways to be comically low to the ground so that enemies couldn’t easily or quickly come into the city. It makes for a very visually interesting stroll.
Also, the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption church is absolutely beautiful and worth a peek inside of, and the cafe next door, Caffè Ronchi Striccoli, is one of the oldest in the city.
👉🏼 Check out my top walking tour pick for Altamura! 👈🏼
Looking to stay somewhere cheap, local, and off-the-beaten-path?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Altamura: B&B del Duomo
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P.S. When you book using my links, you help support Rachel IRL at no extra cost to you. It’s a win-win!
3. Bari
Bari! Is it too much to call this the crown jewel of Puglia? Maybe, but I’m going to do it anyway.
If you’re going to Puglia, you’re almost certainly going to Bari, and if you were thinking of flying in and getting straight out of the city in favor for the smaller towns, I’d urge you to stop and stay for at least a couple days, because you don’t know what you’re missing.
Bari is a little gritty, a little crowded, kinda dirty, loud, hectic, colorful, humid, historic—I could go on. Bari is one of those fantastic little gems of a city that you can tell is just absolutely committed to maintaining its grooves and edges despite the rapid influx of tourism and late-stage capitalism, and for that reason, Bari I salute you.
From the old town to the more hipster areas, from the beaches to the bars, Bari really does have it all. In fact, there’s so much to Bari that I kind of have to cut it off here, otherwise I’ll never stop writing, and you’ll never hear about the other best places to visit in Puglia. If you want to get the rest of the lowdown on Bari, check out my Bari guides.
👉🏼 Check out my top walking tour (+ pasta class) pick in Bari! 👈🏼
Dreaming of a few nights in a luxurious palazzo?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Bari: Palazzo Calò
4. Cisternino
Cisternino really took me by surprise. I wasn’t expecting much from this tiny little town near Martina Franca, but once we got there I knew it was going to impress me.
We planned to go to Cisternino to check out a rosticceria—a type of typical, low-cost restaurant you’ll find throughout Italy serving straightforward regional dishes that you order at the counter to take away or eat at a no-fuss table. Cisternino is famous for a very particular kind of rosticceria where you go up to the deli counter, pick all your meat choices, and they basically barbecue it for you right there.
We actually ended up not being able to eat there, and in fact ended up having a really, really shitty dinner experience, but I’ll get into that more in my Cisternino mini-guide.
Luckily, Cisternino charmed me enough that our messed up dinner plans didn’t even remotely deter me from loving this white washed, friendly, local town perched a hilltop with gorgeous panoramic views of the surrounding valley. Walking through the winding stone streets of the old town felt like I was exploring some famous Greek island—but unlike most white washed picturesque places, this one didn’t feel overrun with tourists.
Around every corner were neighborhood children playing, groups of old people congregating, and the local cool twenty-somethings hanging out at a very cool wine bar called Vineria del Borgo. Cisternino absolutely deserves its place as one of the best towns to visit in Puglia and was one of those total sleeper towns that made me wish I had carved out more time for it.
👉🏼 Check out my top activity in Cisternino: A combo town & winery tour! 👈🏼
Want a resort-style stay just minutes from this quaint village?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Cisnernino: Essenza Relais Contemporaneo
5. Grottaglie
Grottaglie is without a doubt one of my favorite places to visit in Puglia—we actually ended up going back two more times after our first visit—and probably one of the places I most highly recommend making time for when you visit.
Located just inland of Taranto, this town is most famous for its ceramics quarter, which was like, a million times more impressive and exciting than I had anticipated. It’s one main street (with some offshoots) kind of on the edge of the old town with seemingly countless ceramic shops all up and down the street.
I actually think that, aside from one restaurant and one bar-caffè, there isn’t a single business on that street that isn’t a ceramics shop. What I really appreciated about Grottaglie though, is that unlike other types of towns like this, it wasn’t just the same cookie cutter shop over and over again, which is admittedly what I was expecting.
Almost every shop in the ceramics quarter has its own unique aesthetic and style, which makes browsing a really fun experience. I picked up a pitcher and some bowls from a few different places, and I’m still sort of mourning the fact that I didn’t buy a very cool looking mirror.
Aside from the ceramics quarter there’s actually a very pretty and quaint historic center in Grottaglie as well. We had a really lovely time at a wine bar and trattoria after one of our trips. You can read more about Grottaglie and see some photo inspo in my mini guide to Grottaglie.
👉🏼 Want to try your hand at the pottery wheel in Grottaglie? This experience is for you! 👈🏼
Looking to stay somewhere one-of-a-kind and conveniently located?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Grottaglie: Antica Masseria le Monache
6. Locorotondo
Locorotondo was a town that we made a last minute decision to squeeze into our itinerary, and I was so glad we did.
Like many of the towns in Valle d’Itria, and many of the towns I tend to like, there’s no real list of things to do or places to see, which makes it the perfect type of town to really soak up the southern Italian charm.
We had some of the best Caffe Leccesi of our entire trip here, visited the cutest little bookshop, and had the best time chatting to the owner of the amazing lace and embroidery shop, Il Tempo Ritrovato di Spalluto Nunziata.
It was a little bit too hot and we had a tight schedule so we didn’t get to stick around for as long as we would have liked to, but nonetheless Locorotondo managed to charm me instantly into believing it is one of the most worthwhile places to go in Puglia. Check out my mini guide here!
👉🏼 Take in the trulli-filled countryside with an eBike tour from Martina Franca to Locorotondo! 👈🏼
Looking for a luxurious stay in a tiny but happening town?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Locorotondo: 1783 Dimora d’Epoca
7. Martina Franca
Martina Franca – known for having one of the best preserved Baroque town centers in the Valle d’Itria – was our base for our time in central Puglia, and I would highly recommend it for that purpose. I really enjoyed spending time there, even though we sort of chose it at random, and would definitely say it belongs on any list of where to visit in Puglia.
Martina Franca is pretty well located to the majority of the towns and cities on this list, and is also worth the visit on its own. There are a plethora of restaurants and bars in the old town to keep you satisfied, and the white washed, twisty turny streets are perfect for exploring and getting lost in.
When we were staying here there was a music festival happening, and every night there were performances in the main square area, and even on the weeknights it was just full of locals drinking and dancing with their families. It was so much fun. I highly recommend it, and if you want to read more, check out my mini guide!
👉🏼 Check out my top pick for a Baroque-focused walking tour of Martina Franca! 👈🏼
Looking for perfect base for exploring the whole Valle d’Itria (and views to boot)?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Martina Franca: Terrazze Sulla Valle
8. Ostuni
I’ll be honest, I genuinely thought I was going to hate Ostuni. It’s quite well known as one of the places to visit in Puglia, which can often translate to overly touristy, but Ostuni totally took me by surprise.
It was admittedly a little more touristy than many of the other towns on this list, but I’d actually describe it as more so busy with tourists, while the actual town itself still manages to feel pretty authentic. We found a very cool antique and vintage shop, as well as a few really lovely cafes.
The historic center is super hilly, white washed, and full of picturesque perfect little streets, like so many of the towns in the area.
Instead of doing a nice sit down lunch in Ostuni, we opted for a street food lunch of panzerotti, which is one of the main foods you’ve got to try in this part of Puglia (read about the others here!). It was sooo good and I’ve been lowkey chasing that high ever since, but I haven’t found one to live up to the Ostuni panzerotti yet.
If none of that was enough to entice you, there’s also an incredible view point where you can really take in the stunning hillside town.
👉🏼 Check out my top pick for a walking tour in Ostuni! 👈🏼
Looking for a perfectly located, comfy, modern hotel in Puglia?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Ostuni: Primo Ostuni Hotel
9. Polignano a Mare
Polignano a Mare impressed the hell out of me. I had fully assumed I would be putting this one in the “not recommended” section of this list, but alas, that was another lesson that you can never be sure until you see for yourself.
Despite definitely being crowded with tourism, Polignano a Mare manages to maintain a semblance of local charm. There are cute shops, local cafes and bars, winding streets and lots of locals’ homes located in the heart of the old town.
The most famous view in Polignano a Mare is, of course, the beach. As you’d expect, it gets crowded here, so it’s probably not ideal for a super relaxing day, and I wouldn’t recommend coming to Polignano a Mare with the intention to have a beach day.
However, if you don’t mind being salty and damp for the rest of your day I do think it’s perfect to end your visit to the town with a nice dip. This way you don’t need to fight for space on the sand, you can just find a spot to leave your stuff and enjoy the beautiful water and even more stunning setting.
👉🏼 Check out my top pick for a speedboat tour of Polignano (of course including an aperitivo)! 👈🏼
Looking for unbeatably stunning sea views from your room?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Polignano a Mare: Tre Archi Suite & Relais
Bonus: Matera
Matera is a bit of a cheat, since it’s technically not in Puglia, but rather the neighboring region of Basilicata. That said, it’s close enough to some of these towns—especially Altamura—that I would feel remiss if I didn’t mention it.
Matera is famous for a few things, namely the fact that after Petra, in Jordan, it’s the oldest continuously inhabited area on earth, which is pretty cool. And unlike Petra (which is, to be fair, one of the coolest places I’ve ever been), Matera has preserved a few of their sassi, or stone cave dwellings, so you can explore them and see how people used to survive in that type of environment.
Insider Tip
Visiting the Matera Sassi house museums is a great thing to do during the pausa, because the stone structures are naturally quite cool!
Aside from the impressive historical significance, Matera is also just generally stunning, and you can get some really breathtaking views from various points in and around the city. There are also a lot of cute little shops, and tons of lovely little bars and cafes. We stopped in Matera after our food tour in Altamura, and it was such a lovely thing to cap off the day.
👉🏼 Check out my top pick for a guided tour of Matera’s sassi (caves)! 👈🏼
Looking for a romantic stay with breathtaking views?
🛏️ Here’s my top hotel pick in Matera: Il Belvedere
Where You Can Skip in Puglia
One thing I set out to always make sure I do on this blog is to be transparent with you all, and sometimes that means being real about places I just did not like. Sometimes it’s an unpopular opinion, sometimes I’m just ahead of the curve, but either way, it’s the truth!
Awkwardly, I only ended up having one place I think you should skip in the Valle d’Itria.
This is where I think you can skip if you’re crunched on time.
1. Monopoli
I had such high hopes for Monopoli. For me, it is to Puglia what Taormina is to Sicily: overhyped, packed with tourists, and stress-inducing.
Monopoli is well known for its picturesque marina and beach area, and I have to admit, the boats and the beach were super aesthetically pleasing and lovely to look at for a while! Also, the more residential streets in the centro storico are quiet, cute, and pleasant to walk around. However, there aren’t really any businesses on these streets, and even for someone like me, who loves to wander aimlessly, there’s only so much aimless walking I can do in blazing heat before I want to sit and relax for a bit.
Most of the areas I came across with shops and cafes felt a bit touristy and in many cases were totally swarmed with beach holiday tourists. I just don’t really ever like this type of vibe. I feel like it’s impossible to get a good feel for a town like this, and personally it just makes me feel overstimulated and annoyed. If these things don’t annoy you and you want to see the marina and beach, feel free to ignore me! If you think you’d also find this irritating, it might be worth a skip.
Frequently Asked Questions:
What is the most beautiful part of Puglia?
This is sort of like asking which slice of cake is the best tasting slice of cake… Like, the cake tastes good, and they’re all tasty slices! Italy is stunning; Puglia is beautiful! We’re splitting hairs here trying to name a most beautiful part, but if I must answer I would have to say that Salento, the southernmost portion of the heel, is the most beautiful part of Puglia. It’s home to beaches commonly referred to as the “Maldives of Italy”, as well as stunning grottos and quaint old towns.
I didn’t get to cover Salento in this post, but check out my guides to Salento here.
What is the prettiest seaside town in Puglia?
For the beach views alone it’s hard to give anyone the top spot other than Polignano a Mare, which is probably the prettiest seaside town in Puglia. If you can catch some of the most iconic and postcard-esque views without it being swarmed with tourists, it really does look unreal.
What is Puglia Italy best known for?
Puglia is best known for a few main things: one food, one type of building, one city, and one natural phenomenon.
That food is, of course, none other than the famous Puglian orecchiette, which is the region’s most famous pasta shape. It’s a very simple little disc, and you can actually see it made in Bari on the orecchiette street (more on that in my Bari guides). You’ll see this pasta done so many ways, but the two most famous are with tomato and cheese or with broccoli rabe.
Puglia is also best known for the trulli houses, which you of course now know about after reading about Alberobello, the famous trulli town. These are mostly found in the central part of Puglia, the Valle d’Itria, and can be seen basically all over the place as you drive around.
Bari is the city that Puglia, Italy is most famous for. It’s the capital of the region, home to the main airport, a vibrant old town, and a hipster new town. Bari is definitely worth a stop during your trip to Puglia.
And last, but certainly not least, Puglia is famous for the “Maldives of Salento” beaches that are located towards the bottom of the heel. These beaches are some of the nicest I’ve been to anywhere in Europe, with clean white sand and crystal blue waters that stay waist deep for ages. It really does feel like paradise!
What is the best town to base in Puglia?
This totally depends on which part of Puglia you want to explore, but if you want to stay in the central part of Puglia, I think Martina Franca or Ostuni are both ideal for your Valle d’Itria base. They each have great food options, proximity to other towns and the coast, as well as being cute and worthwhile on their own.
If you want to stay further down in Salento you should decide if you want to stay in a city or a small town. We stayed in the little town of Matino and I honestly couldn’t have been happier. But, if you want something with a bit more going on, Tricase, Nardò, Gallipoli, Otranto and Lecce are all viable Salento options.
Is Puglia too touristy?
On the contrary, Puglia, at least parts of it, feel like some of the only parts of Italy left that you can enjoy without feeling like you’re stuck on the tourist trap route. That being said, if you’re in Puglia in July, it will still definitely feel a bit touristy. For reference, we stayed in Salento for the second half of June, and all of July, and we noticed a massive uptick in foreign tourists at the end of the first week of July.
Once August rolls around the tourism typically shifts from American/British to mainly Italians and some other Europeans. We spent August in Sicily the year before, and it ended up effectively feeling like there were no tourists, because obviously Italian tourists aren’t going to be wildin’ out like Americans will be.
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Ready to plan the ideal trip to Puglia’s Valle d’Itria?
Can you believe that all of these places to visit in Puglia are literally still only scratching the surface of what this region has to offer you?
To keep planning the perfect trip to Puglia check out the Salento archives here, and the rest of the Puglia posts here.
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